Emergency Care

This is a term that is synonymous with the more scientific term “Gastric Dilatation/Volvulus.” It is often called GDV. That means that a dog’s stomach twists on its long axis and distends with air to the point where the dog goes into shock and may die.

Dilatation means that the stomach is distended with air, but it is located in the abdomen in its correct place (has not twisted). Volvulus means that the distention is associated with a twisting of the stomach on its longitudinal axis.

How or why does this occur?

We really do not know the answer to either of these questions. Original theories suggested that it occurred when a dog ate a large meal and then engaged in strenuous exercise. However, there is no scientific evidence to support this theory. In most cases, the cause is undeterminable. No specific diet or dietary ingredient has been shown to lead to bloat.

The most commonly affected breeds are those that are “deep-chested,” meaning the length of the chest is relatively longer in proportion to its width. Examples of deep-chested breeds are Great Danes, Setters, Boxers, and Greyhounds. Studies have proven that purebred dogs are more than 3 times more likely to bloat than mix-breed dogs.

Why is it so serious?

When the stomach becomes excessively distended, it causes severe abdominal pain. When the stomach twists, it cuts off its own blood supply as well as the escape routes for the trapped air. Often, the twisting of the stomach leads to rotation of the spleen and compromise to its blood flow. Furthermore, the size and location of the enlarged stomach reduces return blood flow to the heart leading to shock and death if untreated.

When the stomach is distended, digestion stops. This results in the accumulation of toxins that are normally removed from the intestinal tract. These toxins activate several chemicals that cause inflammation, and the toxins are absorbed into circulation. This causes problems with the blood clotting factors so that inappropriate clotting occurs within blood vessels. This is called disseminated intravascular coagulation (DIC) and is usually fatal.

Another complication is cardiac arrhythmia. This abnormal heart rhythm occurs when the heart is deprived of an adequate blood flow and some of its cells begin to die. Dogs must be monitored carefully for this complication. If it occurs and is not treated, it can be fatal.

How can I tell if my dog has bloat?

Your dog‘s abdomen will likely become taut and distended. This is usually visible near the ribs, but depends on the dog’s conformation. The dog may appear depressed and/or painful, and often adopts a “praying position” with the front legs extended fully. The biggest clue is that your dog may have “dry-heaves.” The dog retches continuously, but no vomit is produced. This indicates a life-threatening emergency and your dog should be brought to the hospital immediately.

How is Bloat diagnosed?

The first step is to establish that the stomach is distended with air. The presence of a rapidly developing distended abdomen in a large breed dog is often enough evidence to make a tentative diagnosis of GDV. A radiograph (x-ray) is used to confirm that the diagnosis is dilatation. In most cases, it can also identify the presence of volvulus. Some dogs experience a chronic form of the disease in which the stomach is partially twisted. Distention with air does not occur because the partial twist permits air that accumulates to be expelled out the mouth or into the small intestines. Repeated vomiting is the most common sign. It is diagnosed with radiographs (x-rays) of the stomach that show an abnormal shape to the stomach.

What is done to save the dog’s life?

There are several important steps that must be taken quickly.

1) Shock must be treated with administration of large quantities of intravenous fluids. They must be given quickly; some dogs require more than one intravenous line.

2) Pressure must be removed from within the stomach. In some cases, this may be done with a tube that is passed from the mouth to the stomach. However, if the stomach is twisted, the tube cannot enter it. Instead, a large bore needle is inserted through the skin into the stomach and the trapped air is released. A third method is to make an incision through the skin into the stomach and to temporarily suture the opened stomach to the skin. The last method is usually done when the dog’s condition is so grave that anesthesia and abdominal surgery is not possible.

3) The stomach must be returned to its proper position. This requires abdominal surgery that can be risky because of the dog’s condition.

4) The stomach wall must be inspected for areas that may be dead due to compromised blood supply. Although this is a very bad prognostic sign, these area(s) of the stomach should be surgically removed. The spleen must also be assessed for viability, and a splenectomy may be necessary.

5) The stomach must be attached to the abdominal wall (gastropexy) to prevent recurrence of GDV. This procedure greatly reduces the likelihood of recurrence, but does not completely eliminate it.

6) Abnormalities in the rhythm of the heart (arrhythmias) must be diagnosed and treated. Severe arrhythmias can become life threatening at the time of surgery and for several days after surgery. An electrocardiogram (ECG) is the best method for monitoring the heart’s rhythm.

What are the survival and recurrence rates?

These are largely determined by the severity of the distention, the degree of shock, how quickly treatment is begun, and the presence of complications, especially those involving the heart. Approximately 60 to 70% of dogs survive. This survival rate drops drastically to approximately 20% if surgery is not performed. Following successful surgery, the recurrence rate is 6%. Approximately 75% of dogs that do not undergo surgery have another bloat episode.

What can be done to prevent it from occurring again?

The most effective means of prevention is gastropexy, the surgical attachment of the stomach to the body wall. This will not prevent dilatation (bloat), but it will prevent volvulus in most cases.

The ASPCA Animal Poison Control Center (APCC) is your best resource for any animal poison-related emergency, 24 hours a day, 365 days a year. If you think your pet may have ingested a potentially poisonous substance, call (888) 426-4435. A consultation fee may apply. Click here to learn more.

READ THE LABEL FIRST: PROTECT YOUR PET

Developed by the Environmental Protection Agency and the Consumer Labeling Initiative:

Protect Your Pet:

Labels contain important information.
Follow all label instructions and precautions.
Keep products in their original containers.
Keep pets away from products.
Know where to call for help. Always read the label first before you buy, store, and use household cleaners or pesticide products. Many common household products such as cleaners and pesticides could hurt a pet if not used and stored correctly.

Labels Tell You:

How to use a product safely and effectively.
How to store the product safely.
First aid instructions.
Phone numbers to call for help or more information.

Follow All Label Precautions:

Warnings and directions tell you how to use products safely and correctly. This helps keep you and your pets safe.
Follow warnings to open windows, wear gloves, and avoid breathing product dust.
Keep pets and children away from treated areas as directed on the label.

Keep Products in Original Containers:

It is very dangerous to put products in food and beverage containers.
Containers without tight fitting lids can easily spill, allowing your pet access to the product.
If you throw away the original container, you throw away important information needed in case of an emergency.
If the label tells you to mix a product in another container, use all of the mixture. If you can’t use all the mixture, label the new container for use in the future.

Know Where to Call For Help:

Many labels contain a phone number to call in an emergency.
Have your local poison control center phone number handy by the phone.
Have your veterinarian’s phone number near the phone.
Have the product label with you when you call! The label provides those helping you with important information about the product.

Keep Pets Away from Products:

Don’t spray or store cleaning or pesticide products near pet food or water dishes.
Make sure animals can’t get at bait products while they are in use.
In the event of a spill, be sure to keep animals out of the area until it is cleaned up.
Don’t forget about wildlife. Spraying products on a windy day can carry the product into the water supply for wild animals.
Store all household cleaning products and pesticides where pets can’t get at them.

Rescue Breathing (artificial respiration):
(Performed when there is no breathing)

If your dog has gone into respiratory arrest, begin Rescue Breathing (artificial respiration) immediately.

1. Lay your dog on his side on a flat surface.

2. Be sure your dog has stopped breathing: watch for the rise and fall of the chest, feel for breath on your hand, look at the gums – they will turn blue from lack of oxygen.

3. Check the airway – it must be clear. Open the mouth and look for a foreign object. If an object is blocking the airway, grab the tongue and pull it outward. If this does not dislodge the object, use your fingers, pliers, or tongs to grasp it. If the object cannot be reached or pulled out, use the Heimlich maneuver.

4. Once the airway is clear, begin rescue breathing.

5. With your dog on his side, lift the chin to straighten out his throat.

6. Use one hand to grasp the muzzle and hold the mouth shut.

7. Put your mouth completely over the nose and blow gently; the chest should expand. Blow just enough to move his chest (blow harder for large dogs, gently for cats and small dogs).

8. Wait for the air to leave the lungs before breathing again.

9. Continue giving 20 breaths per minute (one breath every three seconds) until your dog breathes on his own or as long as the heart beats.

10. Continue to monitor the heartbeat.

CPR
(Performed when there is no heartbeat)

If your dog’s heart has stopped beating, CPR must begin immediately. It is best to have two people performing CPR – one continuing artificial respiration while the other does chest compressions. Follow the instructions for artificial respiration, alternating with chest compressions. For two people perfoming CPR, alternate one breath with three compressions. For one person perfoming CPR, alternate one breath with five compressions.

For Small Dogs:
(Under 30 pounds)

1. Lay your dog on his side on a flat surface.

2. Place the palm of your hand on the rib cage over the heart. Place your other hand on top of the first. (For puppies and kittens, put your thumb on one side of the chest and the rest of your fingers on the other side).

3. Compress the chest about one inch. Squeeze and release rhythmically at a rate of 80 to 100 compressions per minute.

4. Continue CPR and Rescue Breathing until your dog breathes on his own and has a steady heartbeat.

For Medium & Large Dogs:
(Over 30 pounds)

1. Lay your dog on his side on a flat surface.

2. Place one hand on top of the other over the widest portion of the rib cage, not over the heart.

3. Keeping your arms straight, push down on the rib cage. Compress the chest 1/4 of its width. Squeeze and release rhythmically at a rate of 80 compressions per minute.

4. Continue CPR and Rescue Breathing until your dog breathes on his own and has a steady heartbeat.

Hurricanes, floods, wildfires, hazardous material spills – disasters can strike anytime, anywhere. If you think you will never have to evacuate unless you live in a flood plain, near an earthquake fault line or in a coastal area, you may be tragically mistaken. It is imperative that you make preparations to evacuate your family and your pets in any situation. In the event of a disaster, proper preparation will pay off with the safety of your family and pets.

Be Prepared with a Disaster Plan

The best way to protect your family from the effects of a disaster is to have a disaster plan. If you are a pet owner, that plan must include your pets. Being prepared can save their lives.

Different disasters require different responses. Whether it’s a hurricane, earthquake or hazardous spill, you may have to evacuate your home.

In the event of a disaster, if you must evacuate, the most important thing you can do to protect your pets is to evacuate them too. Pets left behind can easily be injured, lost, or worse. Pets left inside your home can escape through storm-damaged areas, such as broken windows. Pets turned loose to fend for themselves are likely to become victims of exposure, starvation, predators, contaminated food or water, or accidents. Leaving dogs tied or chained outside in a disaster is a death sentence. So prepare now for the day when you and your pets may have to leave your home.

1.Have a Safe Place To Take Your Pet

Red Cross disaster shelters cannot accept pets because of state’s health and safety regulations and other considerations. Service animals who assist people with disabilities are the only animals allowed in Red Cross shelters. It may be difficult, if not impossible, to find shelter for your animals in the midst of a disaster, so plan ahead. Do not wait until disaster strikes to do your research.

Contact hotels and motels outside your immediate area to check policies on accepting pets and restrictions on number, size, and species. Ask if “no pet” policies could be waived in an emergency. Keep a list of “pet friendly” places, including phone numbers, with other disaster information and supplies. If you have notice of an impending disaster, call ahead for reservations.

Ask friends, relatives, or others outside the affected area whether they could shelter your animals. If you have more than one pet, they may be more comfortable if kept together, but be prepared to house them separately.

Prepare a list of boarding facilities and veterinarians who could shelter animals in an emergency; include 24-hour phone numbers.

Ask local animal shelters if they provide emergency shelter or foster care for pets in a disaster. Animal shelters may be overburdened caring for the animals they already have as well as those displaced by a disaster, so this should be your last resort.

2.Assemble a Portable Pet Disaster Supplies Kit

Whether you are away from home for a day or a week, you’ll need essential supplies. Keep items in an accessible place and store them in sturdy containers that can be carried easily (duffle bags, covered trash containers, etc. ). Your pet disaster supplies kit should include:

Medications and medical records (stored in a waterproof container) and a first aid kit.

Sturdy leashes, harnesses, collars and/or carriers to transport pets safely and ensure that your animals can’t escape.

Current photos of your pets in case they get lost.

Food, treats, portable water bowls, cat litter/pan and can opener.

Information on feeding schedules, medical conditions, behaviour problems and the name and number of your veterinarian in case you have to foster or board your pets.

Pet beds, blankets and toys, if easily transportable.

Newspapers, paper towels, plastic trash bags, grooming items, household bleach.

3.Know What To Do As a Disaster Approaches

Often, warnings are issued hours, even days, in advance. At the first hint of disaster, act to protect your pet.

Call ahead to confirm emergency shelter arrangements for your and your pets.
Check to be sure your pet disaster supplies are ready to take at a moment’s notice.
Bring all pets into the house so that you won’t have to search for them if you have to leave in a hurry.

Make sure all dogs and cats are wearing collars and securely fastened, up-to-date identification. Get your pet microchipped! Attach the phone number and address of your temporary shelter, if you know it, or of a friend or relative outside the disaster area. You can buy temporary tags or put adhesive tape on the back of your pet’s ID tag, adding information with an indelible pen.
You may not be home when the evacuation order comes. Find out if a trusted neighbor would be willing to take your pets and meet you at a prearranged location. This person should be comfortable with your pets, know where your animals are likely to be, know where your pet disaster supplies kit is kept, and have a key to your home. If you use a petsitting service, they may be available to help, but discuss the possibility well in advance.

Planning and preparation will enable you to evacuate with your pets quickly and safely, but bear in mind that animals react differently under stress.

Outside your home and in the car, keep dogs securely leashed.
Transport cats in carriers.

Don’t leave animals unattended anywhere they can run off. The most trustworthy pets may panic, hide, try to escape, or even bite or scratch.

When you return home, give your pets time to settle back into their routines.

Consult your veterinarian if any behavior problems persists.

A Final Word

If you must evacuate, do not leave your animals behind. Evacuate them to a prearranged safe location if they cannot stay with you during the evacuation period. If there is a possibility that disaster may strike while you are out of the house, there are precautions you can take to increase your pet’s chances of survival, but they are not a substitute for evacuating with your pets. For more information, contact The Humane Society.

Please print this page and have it available for your pet sitter for emergencies

Pet’s Name:

Breed:

Food Type:

Feeding Schedule:

Medication Instructions:

Special Instructions:

My Contact Information:

Telephone Number:

Cell Phone Number:

Alternate Emergency Contacts:

Our Veterinarians are:

ALICIA PET CARE CENTER
25800 Jeronimo Rd, Ste 100
Mission Viejo, CA 92691
Tel: 949-768-1313 Fax: 949-768-5759
www.mypetsdr.com

Hours: Mon-Fri 7am – 7pm, Sat: 7am- 7pm, Sun – Closed

There are a number of substances we keep in our homes that can be dangerous for our pets.

Antifreeze: For both dogs and cats, antifreeze is toxic, even in small amounts. Make sure it’s kept far out of reach of pets and take immediate care if your pet ingests any.

Medicines, cleaning supplies, sunscreen, and gardening products are often easy for animals to access and injest.

Chocolate: A dog should never be fed chocolate because theobromine and caffeine, both of which occur naturally in cocoa, will elevate heart rate and irritate the gastrointestinal tract (which can cause internal bleeding). The amount of chocolate that can prove fatal depends on the size of the dog and the type of chocolate it has eaten. Baking chocolate, for instance, is more harmful than milk chocolate. For more information visit this article.

Walnuts: Walnuts contain a fungus that can cause your dog to experience seizures. The high phosphorus content of walnuts and many other nuts can lead to bladder stones.

Baby Food and Cats: Sometimes when a cat is sick, people feed it baby food. Many baby foods are flavored with onions which can cause anemia in cats. Read the label carefully before feeding any to your cat.

Houseplants: There are a number of houseplants that can be extremely harmful to cats such as a caladiums, carnations, cyclamens, dumbcane, indoor bulbs, holly, hydrangea, mistletoe, ivy, philodendrons, and rubber plants. Rabbits are also predisposed to nibble at greenery. If you allow your rabbit to roam freely in your home, be sure that all houseplants are off the ground and out of reach.

Rodenticides: For obvious reasons rat and mouse baits can be very dangerous for Dogs & Cats to injest.

If you suspect your pet has ingested a poison, watch for signs of intoxication. Dogs and cats exhibit symptoms such as drooling, glazed eyes, lethargy, vomiting, or seizures. Birds have respiratory difficulties or fall off their perches. If your veterinarian is unavailable, call or take your pet to the local 24-hour emergency veterinary hospital. We recommend:

Rise Pet Health
(949) 787-7473
24721 Alicia Pkwy Laguna Hills, CA 92653
www.risepethealth.com

Or you can call the ASPCA Animal Poison Control Center at 1-888-426-4435, 24 hours a day. They charge a fee of $45. When you call, be sure you have the following information: your name, address, and phone number, your credit card number, the species, breed, age, sex, and weight of the animal involved, the type of poison that your animal has been exposed to, the amount of poison involved, and the duration and nature of any symptoms.

ASPCA website lists some of the most frequently encountered plants and contains plants that have been reported as having systemic effects on animals and/or intense effects on the gastrointestinal tract.

Toxic plants for your dog: click here

Toxic plants for your cat: click here

Note: ASPCA website shows photos of the plants so you can see their appearance. 

ASPCA website lists some of the most frequently encountered plants, including plants that are toxic or non-toxic to animals.

Non-toxic plants for your dog: click here

Non-toxic plants for your dog: click here

Note: ASPCA website shows photos of the plants so you can see their appearance. 

A well-stocked first aid kit for cats and dogs includes:

– Booklet on treating your pet’s injuries
– Roll Cotton
– Some Cotton Balls
– Gauze Pads
– Gauze Tape
– Hydrogen Peroxide (check the expiration date)
– Hydrocortisone Ointment
– Scissors
– Eyewash
– Silver Nitrate
– Tweezers
– Oral Syringers
– Pediolyte® or other balanced electrolyte fluid
– Baby Food – meat flavors work best
– Large Towel
– Exam gloves
– 1 inch white tape (in addition to gauze tape)
– Rolls of elastic wrap
– Emergency Ice Pack
– Thermometer (both oral and rectal thermometers can be used rectally)